Study on Professional Process of Bra Design

110Journal of Dong Hua University ( Eng. Ed.) Vol. 18 No .4 (2001)Study on Professional Process of Bra DesignLi Mingju (李明菊)Fashion Institute , Dong Hua University , Shanghai ,200051Xu Zhaohui(徐朝晖)Shanghai Xinhua Gamnent Group , 201036The process of bra design in the underwear industry isstudied. Several important aspects of the process wereOverview of Bra Design Process .identified: sizing, fabric selection, pattern developmentand grading, the use of CAD system, ftting and wearThe bra design process requires a combination of designtrials. Although the design process relies heavily on thecreativity, precision of pattermn making skills and a nich knowledgeexpertise and experience of designers， the modernof fabric performance. Most bras are constructed from flat panclstechnology such as CAD can facilitate and optimize theof strelch fabrics, then assembled into three dimensional gamentdesign process, and the fitting process on life models isand ftted to a life model. Through fiting, designers can check ifessential for the underwear design. The differencesthe garment supports the body without any distortion of garmentbetween domestic underwear companies and foreignond if it is comfortable to wear， then make adjustmenl imajor ones mainly lie at the lack of dress form specallynecessary. The ftting process takes place bouh after theused for underwear design, lack of CAD/CAM or notdevelopment of first pattern and after grading. In a word, thmaking full use of them, and most of all，lack of theperect design of patterm involves serials of prucess of fiuting und}professional bra designers or even slilful patternadjustment before production (shown in figure 1), where two sizesdesigners. The prospects and future model of bra designare graded parallel.process were also elaborated in this paper.The design process is urique for cach style of bra, becauseKeywords: undenwear, bra, dlesign process, CAD technique ，the pattern shape for each bra is dependent on the characteristics offtting .fabrics and the design elements of style. This relationship impliesthatit is the common practice to design a new style from firstprinciples.BackgroundMethodsThe buman body has always presented problems for theclothing industry, especially the underwear sectors, such as braTo explore the current design process in the dornestic braand girdle, as far as garment fit is concemed. With the increase ofcompanies (including JV), two methods were used: questionnairefashion consciousness among consuner and versatile demands inand company visits. The questinnaires were sent to the brathe market, the design and manufacture of bra have been paid thedesigners in four major cormpanies and the followving topics wereever-increasing altention in the clothing industry. In contrast withincluded for open discussion: sizing, fabric selection, pattemthe wealh literature describing the history of bral"I, there is a lackdevelopnent, flting and grading， the use of CAD，wear trials,of published material devoted to its design and manufacture.design expertise and experience. The inteview with designers tookTherefore, to explore the details of curent bra design process andplace during visits to two famous bra manufacturers in Shanghai.find its differences between domestic underwear companies andIn addition to the topics listed in questionnaine, further informnationintemational major ones, a study of current working methods ofaboul design process was obtained hrough on- sitc research. Here,bra design was carried among the bra designers in domesticfor the sake of commercial and confidential reason, namcs of theunderwear corupanies .surveyed companies weren't listed in the paper.Bra is one of the closest ftting garments wom by womentoday. Designed to support and rmould the soft issues of upperResultsfemale body, the garment is shaped to fit exacly the contour olthe body, In addition to this basic requirement, the garment mustAfter the total six companies were sucessfully evaluated, ilbe confortable to wear and appear atractive. On the ouher side, in中国煤化工developed its own workingorder to adapt the design w the variation of the body shapes ofof slandlard sizing chart.YHfemale population, commercial products have to meet the criteriaCN M H G emphasis on fting and werin a wide range of sizes stipulated by the relevant authoritiesl2!.trial were common among the surveyed companies.Recired Dec. 20, 2000Journal of Dong Hua University (Eng. Ed.) Vol. 18 No.4(2001) 111Inspiration & mood boardF abric selectionFabric tcstingFashion sketch| First pattern in sample sizcFirst sam ple garmcntAdjust samplc & amcnd patternFit to lifc modcIAssess filrange of sizes .Graded sample size a| Graded samplc sice bAdjust samplc &Adjusi sample &Fit to life modeIFit to life modelam end patternanend pallernAssess fitSet of graded paltern .ProductionFgure 1 Process of bra design1 SizingThe in-depth research revealed that some bras companiesGeneraly speaking, the domestic underwear companies haveoccasionally use their self-defined sizing charts in production. Irapplied current criteria of sizing set by the authority. For example,this case, even bras are labeled the same size but if produced byfor domesic market，the specification of bust circunference is .different manufacturers, the inconsistency in true measurements70 cm, 75 cm, 80 cm and 85 cm, which is equivalent to the 32in,will take place in the market.34in，36in and 38in respetively in American and European2 Fabric Selectionmarket. While the cup of bra is specified as typeA, B, C and D. delermining the shape offor Chinese women, AA,B, C,D, DD, E for those in westrma pattern中国煤化工greed on the imporunecountries. Because the body sizes of western people are differentof fabridC N M H Gign procss.s If the fabric .from Chinese, and more' diversified body shapes exist amongfor an exusung styue is cnangea, a new set of patterns should beAmerican women. So the sizing chart should be adjusted accordingdeveloped, and accordingly the ftting and wear trial processto the specific requirements.should be performed to get he perfect pattern shape.112Jouma! of Dong Hua University ( Eng. Ed.) Vol. 18 No.4 (2001)Most fabrics used in bra design contain a small percentage ofhave their on-site testing laboratories to check the fubricelastic fber, with verifying constructions: woven， knittod andinformation from suppliers or add extra testing for the specitic use.lace. Usually, fabrics from suppliers provide detailed infornation3 Pattern Development & Gradingabout component, stucure, relevant mechanical propertics etc. .Patterm developnent is very comnplicated as we can see that aThe typical technical specification for a warp knitted stretch fabricfull set of bra patterns consists of a minimum of five to ten piecesis shown in Table 1.or even more.“Ty and eror”is a method widely used in pattemTable 1 Technical specifications of a warp knitted fabricdevelopment. The final patterm pieces are only developed afer asuccession of sanple garments have been ftted and adjusted. InFiber componeat, such as polyamnide,Matcrialpalyestr, cotton, athis research, it was the accepted practice to assess the ft of agarment on life models, and all the companies felt this was theFinished fabricKniting construction, widh, and weightmain way to achieve a we-fiting garment (see Table 2). The lifeMechanical propertiesExtension rale at a given loadmodels used in most cases were company employees with typicalWashing, perspination, rubbing (dry andbody sizes, they can also represent local consumers for fiting.Fastnesswet), light, elc.Owing t0 the lack of standard dress form secifically used for braShrinkageWater shinkagedesign, bra designers ocasionally use it for ftting.The mioimum content of formalin andFiting sample garments is extremely imortant in both theFinishing specificationchlorinepatterm development and grading process. It is apparent hat hereis a strong reliance on life models during fiting, which poses someWash care symnbolsRecommended or notproblems in maintaining size consistency, because the body shapeof a life model changes with time and living habits.Lace is a very important fabric widely used in bra design, itsGrading usually is a very lengthy process, as a typical styleopen structure lends to be dimensionally unslable in tension and sowill often be produced in 16 or even more sizcs. Most companiesits bursting strength is used as a measure of its ability to withstandused the traditional approach and graded all pattem shapes for eachnormal pressure. As for the elastic bindings and shoulder straps,size, and they usually ft all graded sizves t life models. Typicalfabric extension or stretch percenage is also an importanttimes to grade and ft all sizes varied from two to four 1months.parameter used to assess its suitability for bra design. In a word,While with the use of CAD system， this prucess could bewhen selecing a new fabric. bna designer will base a judgement onshortened within one month， which demonstrates the greatits visual appearance, tactile qualities and strelch properties.advantage of new technology.Meanwhile, it is the common practice for bra manufactures toTable 2 Patten development, fiting and gnadingUse ofSizes fttedTime from gradingComparydress fomlife modelson life modelsto frting all sizcesUse it to ft a new garmeantMainly company suaf, seldom profesional modelsAl the sizes4~ 5weeksEUse it to create a new designProfissionadl modcls used for show, stalf for fitingAs many as pssibl 5 weeksNever usod in designCompany staffAll the sizesAl least 2 monthsNever used in fitingCompary staffNot disclosedNever used in designAbout 4 months4 Use of CADIn this rsearch, only two out of the six surveyed companiesIn receat years, CAD systems have been used for pattemwere using CAD systems for gnading and lay planning. whichdeveloprment and grading, especially in the intemational majorgreatly reduced the processing time ( see table 3). Few companiesclothing companies. These systems store pattem shapes, whichcurently use the CAM (computer aided manufacture)，such ascan be adjusted efficiently according to the specifie designautonated cutting equipment. The companies using CAD systemrequirermeats. When used in grading, sample size pattem can beappr中国煤化工e lhose without CAD hoperesized according to required amount of growth at gnading pointtb= it. However, it was anaround the piece. They can be plotted out on to paper either in ainmcl|Y片CNMHGnotusedtodesignthefirstnest format or as separate sizes. If any adjustmnent is needed, thepatten, WDucn was sou aone y nana in almost al cases.pieces can be graded again quickly by applying the proper gadingWith the introduction of advanced technology and equipmentrules.in the clothing industry, a system incorporated 3-D pattem makingJournal of Dong Hua University (Eng. Ed.) Vol. 18 No.4(2001) 113and vitue-iting process was regarded as the extension of furtherdifculies associated with modeling fabric accurately， fewCAD system. Because of the nature of clothing design 'and theconmercial 3-D CAD systerns exist in clothing design area.Table 3 Use of CAD techniqueCompany usingUse it for pattemUse it for grading?Use for lay planning?Which process is best suited PotentialCADmaking?to CAD? Give the reasonsimprovementsAny improvemcnts toANo.0riginal pttrmns Yes， use CAD toYesCrnding, bocause of timethe system ane wel-ar pnoduced mamually ganade all gamentssaving and accurayBUse it for modifying Ycs， usce CADYeGrading, because it short-Not disclosedexisting patternsimprove fitens the lead time5 Wear Trialscopy the design from some famous brands and adjust it on flatFit of garment is futher asesed through wearer trials. Allpatterm. Thanks to the repeating process of fiting on life models,companies perform some types of trial to evaluate the perfonnancethe ft of bra then can also be guaranteed.ofa gamment over a certain period of time (after 3~5 times of2. To facilitate the design process, most intermaionalwashing), especially in the case of using a new material in bracompanies use CAD system with one workstation and even more,design. The panels of tester usually are cornpany employees andbesides, it links with CAM systemn, dhus developing a fullyfeedback is given after some time of trail. Sample garmnents areautomated design and production process. While anong therated in temms of ft, comfort and durability for the asssment ofdomestic companies, only a few use CAD systems and few usethe comprehensive garment quality.CAM curently. For those use CAD systems, they use it mainly6 Designer's Expertisefor guading and lay planning, seldom for pattem development asThe surveyed companies felt that sccessful design camethe case in most intemational bra coumpanies.mainly with experience and practice. The expertise was considered3. The importance of designer's expertise and experienceessential to develop well-fiting garment patterms in thereached the lotal agreement in the research. But the fact is owingenvironment of quick response system and diversified demandsto the lack of klilful designers in domestic bru companies. theirfrom consumer. In addition to the knowiedgo about fabricdesigns are immature and producls less competitive in the market.perfomance and pattem development, the ability to visualize a flatWhile the intemational underwear comparies have specializedpattem in 3-D terms was also considered an important part of adesign depatments with many talents devoted t0 bra design.designer's skills. Such expertise is learned over several years withsenior designers training junior saff. One company slated that itImplicationstook at lecast three years for a college graduate to bcome aprofessional bra designer.Mass custornization5! and custom-fit system are trends inclothing industry with the rapid development of technology in areasConclusionsof CAD, cutting equipment, digital print, body scanning andIntemetbased communications. However, the developer of newIn conclusion, the design of wellfting bra is dependent ontechnology needs to understand what constitutes good ht from thepattem shape, sizes, fabric characterisics and the use of advancedwearer's point of view. So technology will not displace one aspectfacilies. Typical design process includesthe fllowingof conventional mass production 一the customer's perception ofprocedures: preliminary design, fabric selection, pattemsft- thus the process of fiting on life models will continue in orderdevelopment, grading, and fiting and wear trials. From this0 get the feedback from wearer in termns of pbysical，research and some previous survey into bra companies houme andpsychological, visual and social aspects of fitl4.In the process of bra design, in order to make the "right atabroad, we found the fllowing diferences between domesticcompanies and interational major ones in terms of bra designfrst time" pattern and shorten the process of fting, it's essentialprocess, use of CAD and designer's expertisc:to use the right dress form that can reflect the typical body shape1. The design process in major international underwearfor a target market. On the stage of pattern development, the usecompanies starts from draping on the dress forn and putting it intoof CAD inegrated with expert and virtual fiting systen willflat paltemn, then ft the first sample garment on life models andfacilitate and optimize design process. On the stage of grading, themake amendment on pattern if necessry. thus a specific pattemadoption of standard sizing charts based on the large-scale bodydesign is decided. While most domestic companies seldom usemeasurer. rrge of body sizes anddress form to drape for a new design, their conmon practice is toshapes中国煤化工the futue model ofprofessidMHcNMHGd(thomasig.2).114Joumal of Dong Hua University ( Eng. Ed.) Vol. 18 No.4 (200)Use the dress formFit both on human bodyUse standard sizingApply patternma-rlcingtypicaland with virtual fttingbased on body measur.king principleshuman body shapessystemement surveyDraping on dressPattern develop.Filting on modelsGradingSet the paternform for new designment with CADand adjustingwith CADfor productionFg. 2 Future modl of bra design process1992References[2]罗莹编著 .贴心时尚一-内衣 设计,中国纺织出版社,北京，1999,9[1] Carter, A, Underwear, the Fashion History, Batsford, London,Tait, N, Apparel Intemational, 1998 July/Aungust, 22 ~ 24[4] Ashdown,S, et al, Applied Ergonomics, 1995, 26(1), 47 - 54中国煤化工MYHCNMHG